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Orientation
& History
Our
neighborhoodle quartier Batignollesis home to
all the niceties of everyday life that make being in Paris a spectacular
experience. The quartier is crisscrossed by cobblestone streets
lined with cafés, neighborhood restaurants, and merchants
of every sort. Batignolles is located in the
center of the 17th Arrondissement, nestled between Montmartre, l'Arc
de Triomphe and l'Opéra. This is the real Paris!
Batignolles
grew from a small village of country houses built by the elites
of Paris during the First Empire. When the residents needed a church,
King Charles X and Madame la duchesse d'Angoulême personally
donated the funds to build the exquisite Église Sainte-Marie
des Batignolles. The church, overlooking la Place du Docteur Félix-Lobligeois
just three blocks from the apartment, still serves Batignolles residents,
both spiritually and as a venue for classical music concerts.
Morning
Start
A
perfect day begins
with a leisurely breakfast of fresh pastries from the boulangerie
just across the street. Enjoy your breakfast on the balcony overlooking
the street as it comes to life. After breakfast, explore the neighborhood
on foot. Small storefronts are filled with bakers, antiques dealers,
newstands and florists. The people of Batignolles are warm and friendly.
Within a day or two, you'll be the recipient of familiar smiles
and greetings of "bonjour."
The
Square des Batignolles is perfect for a mid-morning rest. This neighborhood
park was part of Napoleon III's plan for beautifying Paris. More
than a century later, it is still the largest green space in the
17th Arrondissement. The park, designed in the naturalistic English
style, features a koi pond, a rushing stream, flocks of wild birds,
and a tremendous array of majestic old trees including a curiosity
from the New Worlda giant California redwood. Nor are man-made
pleasures forgotten. Children will enjoy the antique carousel and
playgrounds, while adults can partake in a rousing traditional game
of pétanque.
Midday
Relaxation
When
in Paris, do as the Parisians do! Enjoy a lengthy lunch in one of
the many cafés and bistrots in the neighborhood. Your choices
are almost endlessclassic French, Russian, seafood, Vietnamese,
vegetarianeverything is right here. We have included some
of our favorite restaurants in our Links page.
Afternoon
Exploration
A
pretty afternoon is perfectly suited to adventures further afield.
Montmartre lies just to the east. This tallest hill in Paris, best
known as the home of the Basilique du Sacré-Coeur, is one
of the city's quirkiest neighborhoods. Time seems frozen in the
era of Toulouse-Lautrec in the back streets, while the main thoroughfares
at the bottom of the hill are crowded with tourists. The neighborhood
has countless wonderful cafés and restaurants, as well as
artists' studios, bookstores, museums, historic cemetaries, windmills,
and Paris' only remaining working vineyard.
Shopping
in Paris is like nowhere else in the world and many of the most
famous stores are just a short ride away by Métro. The queen
of les grands magasinsLes Galeries Lafayetteis
just a 15-minute ride away. Its smaller sister, Printemps, is nearby.
A few stops further will bring you to la Place Vendôme, home
to most of the world's greatest jewelers, including Cartier, Mikimoto,
Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron, Chaumet, Piaget and Bulgari.
The area around rue Drouot and rue de la Grange Batelière
is the site of the famed Drouot auction rooms and dozens of antiques
shops. And finally, there is the haute couture district along
rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré and rue Montaigne.
For
less sophisticated, but perhaps even more charming shopping, try
the home decor and craftsmen's shops along rue des Batignolles or
the incredible food markets along rue de Lévis and rue des
Moines. Here you'll find some of Paris' best selection of artisanal
cheeses, hand-cut meats, wild honeys and other delicacies.
Paris
has famous museums such as the Musée du Louvre and the Musée
d'Orsay, but there are dozens of lesser-known specialist museums
that are well worth a visit. Many of these are quite close to the
apartment and are easy to reach by Métro. Le Musée
de la Vie Romantique, le Musée de la Parfumerie Fragonard,
le Musée Cernuschi, le Musée Jacquemart-André,
le Musée de Montmartre, le Musée d'Art Juif, l'Espace
Salvador Dali, and le Musée d'Éroticisme all have
some of the city's more interesting collections.
Evening
Adventures
Assuming
you've made your reservation a few weeks in advance, chef Alexandre
Mathieu will bring your day to a perfect close with an extraordinary
dinner at his nearby restaurant, Le Bistral. Alex is a brilliant
young chef, trained in a Michel 3-star kitchen. His style features
inventive and surprising preparations of impeccably fresh seasonal
foods complemented by selections from a fine wine cellar.
Late
Night Carousing
Surprisingly,
our neighborhood is just a few blocks from the all-night fun of
the area stretching from the Place de Clichy to the Place Pigalle.
Here, in the midst of Paris' historic adult playground, you'll find
the lights of the Moulin Rouge and hear the echoes of Edith Piaf
on every street corner. There are innumberable late-night restaurants,
bars, nightclubs and cafés to serve the thousands of eager
night owls out on the streets. Only Paris could manage to have a
red light district that is somehow balanced with a sense of innocence
and tacky, good-natured fun! As you walk back to the apartment and
the neighborhood grows remarkably quieter and more intimate, you'll
be more amazed than ever that a retreat such as Batignolles could
exist shoulder to shoulder with the Paris of legend!
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